Fairway Says “No Prosciutto For You!”

By Virginia Tangel
If you thought the customer was always right, a sign at the deli counter at Fairway on 74th Street would like to remind you otherwise.

The charcuterie on display at Fairway is nothing short of mouth-watering for the carnivore. But don’t you dare try to ask the deli-men to cut the fat off the luscious white-ribboned prosciutto di Parma or prosciutto di San Daniele. It simply isn’t allowed. If you must trim the fat off your ham, please do so in the comfort of your own home, and do it furtively.

A sign at the deli counter warns customers: “Please do not ask your counterman to trim [the ribbon of fat on the meat] away. He has been trained not to, if it bothers you trim it away at home, but know that you are throwing away prosciutto’s flavor, not to mention committing a cardinal gastronomic faux pas.”

The reason for keeping the fat, explains Fairway Manager Ed Burke, dates back to days before refrigeration, when the prosciutto di Parma (literal English translation: ham of Parma) was protected from spoiling by layers upon layers of fat and salt. Now, despite miracles of refrigeration, the fat and salt are kept. “The ribbon of fat imparts an enormous amount of flavor to the meat,” says Burke.

But why is the sign necessary? As the story goes, Fairway executive (and cheese connoisseur) Steve Jenkins was behind the deli counter one day when he overheard a customer request the prosciutto fat to be trimmed off. Jenkins, thinking this was unacceptable, commissioned a sign informing customers of the proper way to consume the delicacy.

Certainly it takes chutzpah to tell the customer that she doesn’t know best. Indeed, rules like these have nearly lead to fistfights. But Fairway is a place for sharp elbows and strong opinions. When you walk into the store on 74th, you must be prepared to be pushed in the back by an old lady and not take your eye off the couscous. And yet, when push really comes to shove, the Fairway deli guys are softies. They will happily trim about 1/8” of fat off of the meat if a health-conscious customer requests.

When pressed, Burke said that he thought the customer was always right—indicating that it doesn’t take an executive order for fat-free prosciutto to be purchased. “But,” he added, “…sometimes [customers] need to be educated.” (Top photo by Virginia Tangel. Prosciutto photo by Avi)