Food Review: Try Aangan’s Goat, But Skip the Chicken
by Avi - September 21, 2009 at 11:07 pm -
By Laura Weiss
If you go to Aangan, an airy new Indian eatery on Broadway and 103rd Street, go for the goat. Open since August, the 36-seat spot is strategically placed on a block that borders Morningside Heights, the better to attract Upper West Siders and the Columbia student crowd. With sleek decor that’s a calming combination of gray and rust tones, Aangan is a definite step up from the typical dingy neighborhood joint that inhabits this northerly expanse of the Upper West Side.
If you’ve never had goat, the preparation I tried during our one visit to Aangan—Saag Gosht—was extremely savory and tender. Cooked on the bone, the goat was smothered in spinach and flavored with spices. A chicken dish, Murgh Xacutti, Goan chicken curry prepared with coconut and spices, was less successful. Overcooked, the chunks of chicken were doused in an insipid sauce. In fact, we shoved that dish aside and concentrated on the aromatic goat.
For appetizers we chose Lahsooni Gobhi, crispy cauliflower tossed in tomato garlic sauce. If you like Chinese sweet and sour sauce, you’ll love this dish. And who can resist an appetizer made with “hung yogurt?” Dahi Kebabb is a small round fritter made with said yogurt (it’s hung in cheese cloth until the liquid drains out, our helpful waitress explained). The patty was rich and tasty, but lacked the spice promised from the chili listed in the ingredients.
In fact, I always wonder why some Indian restaurants under-spice their food. Do they think non-Indians will revolt if the dishes are seriously seasoned?
Service at Aangan is efficient and friendly. Prices are mostly in the low-to-mid teens for most entrees with a few ranging into the low twenties. (photo of Tandoori Lobster dish and Aangan interior via Aangan)
2701 Broadway @ 103d Street
New York, NY 10025
212 280 4100
Laura Weiss is a food and travel journalist who covers the food scene on the Upper West Side at www.foodandthings.com. A version of this article originally ran on that site.