Food Review: Artie’s Gut-Busting Pastrami Burger
by Avi - September 11, 2009 at 8:59 am -
By Pervaiz Shallwani
A few weeks ago, we read with some interest about Salt Lake City being home to, of all things, a culture of pastrami burgers. Then we learned this belly-busting mix of down home America meets Jewish deli was right here in our backyard.
Of course, it was not a surprise that the meat-on-meat sandwich was at Artie’s Deli, the homage to since-passed Artie Cutler, the man behind that puzzlingly beloved American-Italian eating establishment Carmines. If a heaping burger is not enough, the Pastrami Burger, comes topped with, yup, a sandwich helping of homemade shaved pastrami.
The gut bomb comes complete with the stamp of approval, “Artie’s favorites.” We wondered just who in his life came up with this gluttonous idea, but for every gluttonous idea there are thousands of gluttonous eaters waiting in the in wings to indulge. Call us guilty.
The burger is no Shake Shack proprietary blend that is credited with shepherding the current haute burger craze. But it is a solid burger, well-seasoned and juicy. We ordered it medium rare. The server countered with medium, “Medium rare is too pink.” Who are we to argue? He was right. Any pinker and it would have been a French dip.
We couldn’t say the same for the sadly mild bits of limp pastrami. The chewy texture only made it that much harder going down. Two-thirds of the way through, we were done, the fries on the plate barely touched. “You still working on it?” asked a disapproving server whose tone oddly reminded us of a disappointed grandmother. Warning: If you’re done, don’t give it any thought. “Take your time. We close 11 o’clock. Don’t worry.”
Pastrami Burger, $10.95; Artie’s Deli, 2290 Broadway, at 83rd Street; 212-579-5959